HCigar DNA35 Mini Danger!!!

Yeah, good to point out the Yihi chips do have advantages such as reverse battery protection and also can regulate lower than the Evolve...the Cloupor chipset in the T5 as well also regulates lower than the DNA. I would hope Evolve has something in the works that will equal these features and more as well as bringing some advantages...but then again the Chinese move along at a blistering pace and it may be leapfrogged again by the time we see it.

 

I wish I was on the computer, it would be easier to quote this. Anyway, they are die cast, not injection moulded, same same but different. There is no glue, the board is easily removable, you just have to slide it the right way.

Also, that is not at all how most variable watt devices work. The majority of VW chipsets take a single resistance reading, make the calculation, then output the calculated voltage until you stop firing. There are no additional resistance readings taken until you fire again. As far as I know, only the DNA and the Provari v3 have this feature.

As for Chinese chips getting bashed, I can't speak for the Yihi since I haven't tested it, but I can tell you that to me the DNA "clone" is a failure and I don't trust it. I walked into Big's shop he day he got his second batch, screwed in my .2 ohm dripper, and it fired. No way that should have happened. A mech mod with no safety features, but the owner knows the limitations, is safer than a regulated device where the advertised safety's don't work.

Last, the DNA chip is, as always, made in USA. The Vapor Shark housing is not, but I believe the do put in the chips in the States.

 

Intresting, so if you put on an inline volt meter the volts will go up and/or down while vaping, but i guess it aint alot as the ohms dont change alot.

Its wrong to bash "chinese" chips, i think we all know that the copy shop did a bad dna clone and a copy is never as good as the orig. one as thay use cheaper matrials to keep cost down, i took my broken VTR apart today just to see the pcb and i must say it looks alot better than these DNA clones, i guess it has to do with the factory that makes them, ohh btw. no glue in that VTR, ill pop a pic. in:




i just want to add that china can make hq. products take huawei that makes most of the 3g/4g chips for phones/usb/etc. on the market today, its just that these lowtech companys that make the clones cant do it as well duo to bad/outdated pcb printers/mounting robots...

 

Aint that a VV mod only ?, if yes there aint any use for it as it will output the volts its set too...

 

my impression as well, wouldnt make much sense on a VV only device

- - - Updated - - -

thought die casting is only used for metal, never heard it been used on plastic unless .... you say the VS has a aluminium box ... in that case it would make total sense ....

 

Thats the hole idea in regulated mods, thay all do it, some better than other and at diff. freq.

you also see it in modern powersupplys(ie. for a labtop) thay can work from 110 volts to 240 volts without a problem, where the old copper transformers would change the output volts as the input changes.

 

But they don't all do it, that's the point. This is why when your SVD's battery is dying, you get less vapor. A voltage regulator is normally a single chip, where as a regulated power supply is a whole bunch of chips. A shitty engineer will solve this problem with just a VR, a competent engineer will know that a VR is only part of what is required.

Funny we have this thread, the Sigelei thread, and the disposable gear thread all talking about the same stuff.

To put it in the same sense as computers, your computer only uses 5v and 12v DC, so you could power it directly with a car battery and rectify down the voltage with a copper coil for the 5v rail. You use 220v at home, so you need a 220v transformer. Then you need a line conditioner to eliminate spikes and dips, usually done with capacitors. These are things I could design myself with a handful of parts, but would you trust me to do it for your $3000 computer? I have knowledge but no experience. Why would you trust one of these companies with no proven track record, designing custom electronics attached to a flammable battery, and then hold it next to your face several hours a day?

 

But they don't all do it, that's the point. This is why when your SVD's battery is dying, you get less vapor. A voltage regulator is normally a single chip, where as a regulated power supply is a whole bunch of chips. A shitty engineer will solve this problem with just a VR, a competent engineer will know that a VR is only part of what is required.

Funny we have this thread, the Sigelei thread, and the disposable gear thread all talking about the same stuff.

To put it in the same sense as computers, your computer only uses 5v and 12v DC, so you could power it directly with a car battery and rectify down the voltage with a copper coil for the 5v rail. You use 220v at home, so you need a 220v transformer. Then you need a line conditioner to eliminate spikes and dips, usually done with capacitors. These are things I could design myself with a handful of parts, but would you trust me to do it for your $3000 computer? I have knowledge but no experience. Why would you trust one of these companies with no proven track record, designing custom electronics attached to a flammable battery, and then hold it next to your face several hours a day?

 

It also needs +3.3 volt and -12 volts.

as i wrote: Thats the hole idea in regulated mods, thay all do it, some better than other and at diff. freq.

I dont see what this has to do with a regulated mod trys to keep the output voltage the same as the input voltage change ?

 

Almost missed this one:

Not really, it adjusts for fluctuations, but not based upon resistance. Like when you have an incandescent bulb plugged in and you turn on an air conditioner, the light dims. That's voltage droop, which is what the Provari 2.5 compensates for. The 2.5 will keep putting out 4.0v if that's what you have it set to, even if the voltage droops because of resistance change. Similar deal, but not quite the same. The DNA does it based on resistance, which will keep the calculated wattage the same.

Yeah, forgot about that 3.3v. -12 is just 12v wired backwards.

What I was saying is that they don't all do the adjustment during firing like the DNA and the Provari. Most of them work just like the copper transformer you mentioned.

The point is that a poorly designed board will behave unexpectedly, as is the case with these clones and that Sigelei. At least with a mech, you know exactly what will happen. With these boards, a simple error in the resistance calculation can fry the whole thing. Like I was saying with the Hana clone I tried, it fired at .2 ohms. Some people were saying how great that is, but if the traces on the board and the wiring to the battery are only capable of handling .5 ohms, bad things will very likely happen. The parts and logic involved in a board makes it a system, and you have to design the system to be tolerant of the weakest link. This isn't happening with many of these poorly engineered boards, which is what makes them dangerous.

 

I would relly like if someone did a test on this, i dont have the things to do this my self, it could be fun to hook up a Linear DC Variable Voltage Power Supply to the input and an inline voltmeter to the output and see what happens to the output when the input change voltage while firing, my guess is thay all will try to keep the set output voltages....

 

Very interesting, Ryan.
Thanks for the in-depth explanation of why a provari or Evolv DNA will give you a better or more constant vaping experience.

 

Hertz (Hz) Hertz is a unit of frequency that defines the number of cycles per second for a particular event.

So anybody saying that they feels the difference in a smoother vape between 800 cycles per second and 33 cycles per second ..... is being talked into feel a difference to begin with.

Thats the same like music from CD vs. Vinyl, i am sure there are people hearing the difference, but its just like 1% of all people.

- - - Updated - - -

sweet i would trust you do built that, as matter of fact my plan for the future is to put the whole house on DC and use for all electrical needs a Bendini Motor