HCigar DNA35 Mini Danger!!!

I can taste it, quite easily. There is a burnt note to it, even at lower (7-8) watts. Every time I try someone else's atty, generally the first thing I say when they ask me how it tastes is "burnt". I don't have some wine-taster's taste buds either, I'm just particularly sensitive to it I guess.

I can tell you from experience, the iTaste VV, the iTaste SVD, and the eGo-v all do not correct for voltage droop. Its plain to see that when the battery is starting to run low, they produce less vapor. The MVP I can't remember. For the MVP and anything else with a flat DC output (not a Provari or DNA, unfortunately), you can easily just put an inline volt meter between the mod and the atty and see what the output is when the battery starts running low. For anything with a modulated output, you would need an oscilloscope to measure the mean voltage output. That's one of the big reasons I love PBusardo's videos, he actually quantifies everything. I'm sure you've seen plenty of them, but try to notice how many of them don't even have an accurate output, its the large majority.

Hell, thanks for reading my gibberish. Yes, they are the best chipsets out there right now (at least mass produced ones), but in one sense oil is right; most people won't notice any difference. That's why I recommend the 400 baht eGo kits for people who are just starting out. No settings to worry about, if it breaks just throw it away and get a new one. Hell, at this point I would say the Provari v3 should be the next and final step, if only it had the spring-loaded positive post like the Vapor Shark. Why can't one company just get it all f@@king right.

For everyone who doesn't think the 400 baht eGo kit, the Vapor Shark, or the Provari v3 suits them, well, more power to them. There are a ton of other devices, they can use whatever makes them happy. Either it will satisfy them, or they'll get all worked up when they finally realize what the limitations and shortcomings are.

I've been to the hardware store a lot lately, and it reminds me of the tools I see there. I'll see a great drill for 10,000 baht, a shitty drill for 1000 baht, and a whole range of stuff in between. For me, I'll either buy the expensive one and expect it to work well for a long, long time, or I'll buy the shitty one and expect to replace it when it breaks. I don't go messing around with all the crap in the middle.

 

come on, iam NOT talking about a device that is running low here, ill make it clear, i say that if you change the input volt from 4.2 volts to 3.8 while firing and the devise is set to output 4.4 volts, will it self regulate or will it go down to 4.0 volts ?, the drop you are talking about is at low batt. and is a case of cutting of too late ie. stop from firing before it cant sustain the output setting....

 

well i cant explain for what reason i t is, i vape most of the time with around 9 - 12 Watts, so the Vamo V5 / SVD and others could basially deliver the 12 Watts easily, but for reasons i dont have a explanation for, i use like 99% of the time the box mods (Hana Clones, IPV2) Somehow even with same Wattage set, the Vape on the SVD or / Vamo V5 / eGo is just not the same as on the box mods, cant really explain for what reason it is.

So i would not say i taste the difference in some Hz faster regulations, it just felt always the the older Chips dont really deliver the power they said they would

Out of fun i made a quite stupid test ....
So i was putting my SVD on my Ohmtester, which can also test the Voltage of a device.

i put the SVD
on 9 Watts and the output was ... 0.96 Volts
on 12 Watts and the output was ... 0.96 Volts

i put the eGo
on 9 Watts and the output was ... 0.75 Volts
on 12 Watts and the output was ... 0.93 Volts

but then i really have no clue what basic ohms that voltmeter has

cause of the dimension i couldnt screw the box mods on the voltsmeter
would be really curious to know what the DNA / IPV would put out

 

There is something wrong here, volts should be higher, if you put 12 watts and 0.96 volts in a ohms law calc. the ohms is 0.07, i dont know your ohms tester but maybe you need an atty on the ohms test spot while checking volts.

 

That's exactly what I'm talking about, voltage DROOP or voltage sag, which happens on all batteries. I'm not talking about the battery cutting out, I'm talking about less vapor towards the end of a puff. Lets say you have a battery you just pulled out of the charger, it reads 4.2v. You put a hypothetical 1 ohm load on it and fire, it'll read say 3.9v. Later, it reads 3.7v but fires at 3.5v. Towards the end, it'll read 3.3v but fire at around 2.9v. If the board recognizes this, like a Provari, DNA, and I'm sure others out there do, it will compensate for it. If they don't, you get increasing drops in vapor because the percentage of droop is greater. I don't know if I explained that right, but hopefully you get the idea.

 

I don't think its firing at all, its most likely only sending voltage out to test resistance. They won't fire fully without a load, and I know for a fact the SVD won't read on a voltmeter because of PWM. You need an oscilloscope.

 

I get it but what i want to know is if the non provari's and dna's regulate realtime or only 1 time when button is pressed, the volt drop duo to load aint big unless its a bad batt. or its been running at more power than the batt. allow, i never had any less vapor at the end of a vape with any of my mod's, but iam only doing short pull 2 or 3 sec. at a time.

about the compensatetion for voltage drop, as the batt. go lower in volts more power is needed to keep the output volt stable and that will put more stress on the batt. and force it to go even lower in volts so it have to compensate even more it all just comes to wether the batt. is good or bad....

 

The ones I mentioned before only do it one time, when the button is pressed. With your short pulls, I'm not surprised you don't notice it. I normally take around 6-10 second pulls, around 3 puffs per button press, so I do notice it.

As for whether or not its good or bad for the battery to pull more as it gets lower, I don't think it makes a difference. The batteries were designed for it, that is how they are used in most situations. They are rated at 3.7 volts because that is the mid-point of where they are supposed to be during normal usage.

 

yep it seems like that they figure there is no resistance and then they kinda shut down, if i put the devices on VV they sent out the Volts they supposed to do so, set on VW they sent out whats posted above ....

so my assumption is it must be measured under load with a atty

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... and just to be the ***** here ..... where in TH can i get 35w HCigar mini DNA
http://hcigar.com/index.php/Hcigar_35w/show/109.html

and at what price do they run here in TH ..... i had to admit that 95+ is tooo much for a China DNA clone at that price level, its very well worth buying the original

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and since the specs say
Output Voltage 4 Volts 6.5 Volts

isnt 6.5 Volts a bit low for a 35 Watts device .... i believe that my DNA30 clones can fire 7+ V?