Wicking, Is Less More ?

I only know what works for me, I struggled a lot after upping the power from 10 watt vapes when sub ohm started, that said Im now back at 1 ohm coils and 13-16 watts.

 

Sorry I should've been more specific. Not twice the inner diameter but twice the length of the coil wrap, from one lead to another and including the space between each wrap (if you are building spaced coil) Also, I usually go with larger diameter like 3 ~ 3.5 mm so I don't know how this will affect coil with smaller diameter like 2.5 mm either.

Come to think about it ... may be I should try 2.5 mm on my next build and see what happen. It's all trial and error at the moment

 

I only started vaping recently, so not much experience over ohm. Sorry, slightly off topic, but - Presumably you're still getting a satisfying amount of vapour at those wattages, plus batteries last a lot longer ?

Ok, now I'm confused, but I think I understand anyway.

What I was trying to figure out was how wide to cut the cotton strip, and twice the ID does seem like might be an accurate metric. I'll experiment and see how I get on ... Same as you

 

If you want a figure try 1 cm for a 2.5 mm ID coil. That will wick tight, you gotta pull from one side and stretch it from the other to get it through without bending the coil too much. I like it tight, because it will result in a quieter and smoother drawing as compared to those loose and fluffy but horrible cracking demos we see usually on Youtube. I rather have the chamber loosely stuffed, but the tunnel in the coil tighter as what one of my predesessors mentioned. The important thing is getting a smooth transport road from the juice holes to the coil tunnel, with the fibre of the cotton oriented in the flow direction.

 

Thanks etlava, I actually built this your coil yesterday, nice vape, vaping my own brew "double mango" on it right now.

Mine is 7 full wraps, must be 8 at the legs, because ohmage is higher than yours @ 1 ohm ... Wasn't sure if 2.5mm ID would have slightly better airflow, then I looked at airflow holes on kanger RBA and I'm dismayed, they are much smaller than the premade 0.5 ohm kanger coils ... Come on kanger, stop trying to get me to buy premade coils, I don't want 'em !

Lastly wasn't sure if spaced or compressed coil, so went with compressed as it was easier and better fit in the RBA, with that many wraps.

I always prime with naked 50/50, so sorry but I ignored that step

**Updated**

Thanks, I'll have to keep on wicking until it becomes automatic how wide to cut the cotton. Surprisingly, it seems most seem to prefer more rather than less wick. But will take this advice and add it into my process ... So thanks

 

I think what restrict the airflow now is the gap between your coil and the air hole (the hole between positive and negative posts), after you have secured your coil and both screws on each side. From top view, make sure your coil is sitting in the middle, on top of that air hole, then side view to make sure it's not too low until it blocks the airflow. After that, from top view again, try fire the coil (with no cotton in it) just for a couple of seconds to check the heat distribution, it should glow from the middle out (YouTube yield better explanation).
personally I don't prefer 2.5mm ID is because it's too small thus harder to wick and I tend to bend the coil while doing it.

airhole size for :
RBA 1.71mm ID (round)
OCC 2.65mm W. 2.33mm H (rectangular)
I'm not sure whether this answer your question. if you are looking for a better airflow command, you are able to do so by adjusting the adjustable airflow control piece. it's at the very bottom piece of the tank, turn the ring clockwise you'll get
1) double air holes
2) single air hole
3) smaller single air hole
Each setting has its own effect ie : stealth vaping, cloud chasing etc.

you are right, because kangers RBA is so small and with that many wraps plus spaced, the coil legs will stretch out beyond the positive and negative posts screw holes. no harm trying spaced coil though. pre-burning the wire with butane torch helps making the coil less springy thus easier to space.

no worries my friend. All the above and previously mentioned are solely based on my own preference and experience on KangerTech subtank mini only. the reason I choose kanger subtank mini is mainly from economic standpoint. I started off with with one subtank mini, bought second one soon after, then realised that if I buy all the spare parts in bulk from FT it could save me a few quid. in the end clicked on more tanks in FT in order to fully utilise all the spare parts I have. But now I'm wondering whether that was wise or actually economical. I guess my tight ass, over calculative Chinese blood got the better of me. Another adv for having one single made of tank for novice vaper like myself is I don't have to keep Googling for different settings for different made, I would have given up vaping in my first week due to troublesome. Picking up a stinky is so much easier. Err.. Probably I'm just a slow learner.

Good luck and keep on experimenting on it my friend. You will find the setting best suits you.

 

I am 100 % with you on that.
BTW 3 or 3.5 mm is better for vapour, 2 or 2.5 mm is better for flavour. But the 2 mm for me had shorter life span on the Subtank Mini.

I think the Subtank Mini is actually not that easy. In comparison Joyetech CLR looked difficult and tiny for me, but I build 3 in the time I build 1 Kanger RBA.